Spotlight

Nuvi bio-based animal-free leather alternative textiles

Nuvi are developing a range of animal-free leather alternatives from bio-based ingredients. Creta is an innovative material with a soft, supple surface texture made from Champagne chalk. Mamora is made from stone, available in undyed natural shades. Papilio is derived from butterfly pea flowers. The materials are produced on undyed linen-viscose or organic cotton backing materials. They can be coloured, embossed and perforated. They require treatment to be waterproof. Image Nuvi.

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Sparxell cellulose-based biodegradable pigments

Sparxell produce non-toxic and biodegradable pigments from cellulose. Their technology exploits the highly reflective nature of plant-based cellulose. The colour comes from reflected light, so called structural colour, does not fade and can be used in the same contexts as conventional pigments, glitters, and sequins. The company does not use mica, titania or dye, ensuring their pigments have the least impact possible on the environment. Image Sparxell.

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AMSilk animal-free protein-based textile fibre

AMSilk started producing Biosteel Fiber in 2015: a pioneering protein based fibre development that combined high performance properties with sustainability. Today AMSilk produce a range of fibres, from Biosteel to Ultrafine. It is made with biotechnology and is petroleum free. It is completely biodegradable in marine and aerobic conditions, leaving no plastic residue. It is converted into fabric using standard textile manufacturing equipment, turning man-made proteins into fibres for commercial textiles – footwear and garments, bags and wristbands, home textiles and even composites in automobiles. Image AMSilk.

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Simplifyber cellulose-based moulded shoe uppers

Simplifyber produce moulded shoe uppers from a cellulose-based pulp. It is poured into a mould as a liquid and formed into the final shape with heat and pressure, reducing cutting and sewing. The material is made from a mix of wood pulp and other plants and biodegradable additives. It works somewhat similarly to making paper, but the resulting material is strong and durable. The strength comes from an additive derived from food waste, which creates cross-links in the bioplastic structure. It is recyclable with paper. Image Simplifyber.

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Woolchemy wool-based fabrics for hygiene applications

Woolchemy produce technical wool-based fabrics that offer an alternative to synthetic textiles in hygiene and wellbeing applications. NeweFlex is a biodegradable acquisition distribution layer (ADL) for disposable hygiene solutions, including diapers (nappies), incontinence and feminine hygiene products. NeweZorb is an ultra-absorbent, breathable textile that can absorb over 10 times more moisture than its original weight while still feeling dry and comfortable. Image Woolchemy.

Spotlight

CanvaLoop bio-based textiles from agricultural waste

CanvaLoop fibres for fashion and textiles are produced using agricultural waste from crops such as hemp, banana and pineapple production. The fibres are extracted and processed to make HempLoop (stalks from hemp grown for food and medicine), BanLoop (fibres from the plant stalk), PineLoop (fibres from discarded leaves), NettleLoop (wild Himalayan nettle) and FlaxLoop. Image CanvaLoop.

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Arda New Grain leather alternative from plant based ingredients

Arda Biomaterials created New Grain, a new type of leather alternative that is currently in development, made from brewers’ spent grain (BSG). According to Arda Biomaterials, for every 100 ltr of beer, there are 20 kg of spent grain. The protein and fibre in the waste grain is processed into materials suitable for textiles that can be processed using similar techniques to leather. Image Arda Biomaterials.

Spotlight

Octarine Bio natural colours for textile dye based on proprietary enzyme technology

Octarine Bio use bio-based ingredients and fermentation to produce textile dyes. Using a proprietary enzyme technology, they have a range of colours they call PurePalette which provide a drop in replacements for synthetic dyes. The company claims that their dye, including production and application, results in c. 70% lower CO2e emissions, c. 62% less water and c. 62% less energy. Image Octarine Bio.

Spotlight

VTT pilot plant to process captured CO2 into raw materials for plastics

VTT, LUT University, and companies (including Borealis) have opened a pilot plant in Finland to process captured CO2 into compounds that can replace fossil raw materials in the production of polypropylene (bio-PP) and polyethylene (bio-PE). At this stage, they are produced at VTT Bioruukki from flue gas carbon dioxide. In the future, the technology can be brought into production wherever bio-based carbon dioxide is produced, such as in forest industry or waste incineration plants.

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Uncaged Innovations bio-based leather alternative

Uncaged Innovations are developing a leather alternative that is bio-based, animal-free and doesn’t require tanning like traditional leather. The process fuses structural proteins from grains with other bio-based elements to create fibril networks, replacing the animal collagen required for traditional leather. The company claims that the end product emits 95% less greenhouse gasses, 93% less water, and 72% less energy than traditional animal leather. Image Uncaged Innovations.

Spotlight

Recover Fiber recycled cotton

RCotton (RPure, RMix, RDenim) is made with >90% recycled cotton from industrial and post-consumer textile waste. Old clothes and scraps are shredded and opened up into fibre, which can be spun into yarn for new garments. RColorBlend is an alternative they make, a ready to spin fibre without the need for blending or dyeing, containing around 50% recycled cotton mixed with recycled polyester (PET) from bottles (RBlue), or organic cotton (REarth). Image Recover.

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Södra OnceMore regenerated cellulose fibre

This regenerated cellulose fibre from Södra is made with 20% recycled textile and 80% renewable wood. The textile waste comes from post consumer recycled fabrics and includes polycotton blends, which are chemically recycled to liberate the cellulose from the polyester. The polyester is incinerated and the energy recovered goes into the production of OnceMore. Image Södra.

Spotlight

Vegeto milkweed insulation

Vegeto produce a plant-based insulation material made with Canadian milkweed. The light and fluffy fibres comes from the seedpod – their tubular hollow structure provides excellent insulation properties. They are mixed with polylactic acid (PLA), biodegradable polyester, and formed into an insulation fill suitable for gloves, jackets and sleeping bags, for example. Image Vegeto.

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NaNea biodegradable polyester fibre

OceanSafe have developed a 25-30% bio-based polyethylene terephthalate (PET), polyester, that is biodegradable in soil, marine and landfill. In marine water it biodegrades by >93% within 99 days, and is Cradle to Cradle Certified Gold. Alternatively, it can be recycled with regular polyester. It offers drop-in replacement for polyester as fill and fabric for fashion and interior applications. Image OceanSafe.

Spotlight

Bacterial cellulose textiles by Modern Synthesis

Modern Synthesis are developing a new class of materials using nanocellulose derived from bacterial fermentation. Komagataeibacter rhaeticus (K. rhaeticus), isolated from kombucha tea, is fed with sugar and in return creates bacterial cellulose (BC). It is produced as a film, which they combine with a natural textile to create a versatile range of non-woven materials. This unique approach to material design allows designers to precisely control the final look, feel and function of the textile, which can be further enhanced with finishing processes and naturally derived coatings. It is offers an animal free and plastic free alternative to leather, as well as other synthetic materials. Image Modern Synthesis.

Spotlight

Syre chemically recycled polyester

Backed by H&M Group, Syre have developed a chemical recycling process to convert waste polyester (PET) textiles into new fibres. The polyester, derived from post-consumer waste and direct industry waste from factories, is depolymerised to make BHET, which forms the building block for new polyester fibre. Syre claim that the fibre gives the same performance as virgin polyester but with 85% lower carbon footprint. Image Syre.

Spotlight

Imogo digital spray dyeing and finishing for textiles

Imogo have developed a precise technique for digital printing dye and finishing treatments onto textiles using spray application. Compared to conventional dyeing the Imogo process reduces water, chemical and energy consumption by more than 90%. It uses reactive dyes and is compatible with woven, knitted and nonwoven fabrics. The same technology is used to bleach cellulose based fabrics as well as apply water-based finishes to textiles. Image Imogo / Spinnova.

Spotlight

Huue microbial indigo dye for denim

Huue are developing a process that use specially engineered bacteria to convert natural sugars into indigo dye. By mimicking the natural processes used by plants to create colour, they are able to produce indigo without the use of hazardous chemistry or petroleum-derived ingredients. Image Huue.

Spotlight

AirDye waterless transfer printing by Debs

AirDye is a textile transfer printing technology that uses disperse dyes printed onto a paper carrier. With heat the colour is transferred and fixed to the textile in a single pass saving an estimate 95% of the water, 86% of the energy and up to 84% greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions compared to conventional printing and dyeing. Image Debs.

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Dyecoo waterless textile dyeing

Dyecoo developed at process for dyeing textiles using recycled CO2. The gas is heated and pressurised to make it supercritical, at which point is has similar density to liquid. A specially developed disperse dye is dissolved into it and applied to fabric. It is quicker and requires much less energy than conventional wet processes. Image Dyecoo.

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HeiQ AeoniQ regenerated cellulose fibre

HeiQ AeoniQ is made from cellulose feedstock, which ranges from natural materials to waste textiles. HeiQ AeoniQ have developed a gentle, PH-neutral chemistry and >99% of the water is recycled in the process. This is different from conventional regenerated cellulose production, which relies on some hazardous chemicals and solvents to extract and spin the cellulose, and it is not a closed loop process. HeiQ AeoniQ fibre has similar elongation and tenacity to polyester (PET). Image HeiQ AeoniQ.

Spotlight

Circ Polyester fibre

Circ have developed a unique hydrothermal process for recycling mixed textiles made up of cotton and polyester, like polycotton. With their technology, it is possible to extract both materials separately and convert them into the raw materials for new fibres. Usually with mixed material recycling, certain ingredients are sacrificed to save one. In this case, both are useable in new textiles and products. The polyester is recovered from the mixed waste and converted into TPA and MEG, the building blocks required for new polyester. Image Circ.

Spotlight

Circ Lyocell fibre

Circ have developed a unique hydrothermal process for recycling mixed textiles made up of cotton and polyester, like polycotton. With their technology, it is possible to extract both materials separately and convert them into the raw materials for new fibres. Usually with mixed material recycling, certain ingredients are sacrificed to save one. In this case, both are useable in new textiles and products – the cotton is converted into lyocell. Image Zara.

Spotlight

Blocktexx textile recycling technology

Blocktexx have developed a chemical recycling technology capable of handling difficult to recycle fabrics made up of cotton and polyester, such as the popular polycotton. Everyday items, such as sheets and clothing, are chemically separated, using a process they call SOFT (separation of fibre technology), to yield raw materials for new textiles and products. Image Blocktexx.

Spotlight

Ioncell regenerated cellulose fibre

Ioncell regenerated cellulose fibre is the result of a collaboration between Aalto University and the University of Helsinki. The process utilises an ionic liquid solvent to dissolve cellulose. Once dissolved, the cellulose is converted using dry-jet wet spinning technology. The only chemicals applied are the non-toxic ionic liquid and water. They are both re-circulated in the process in a closed loop. Image Ioncell.

Spotlight

Pili bio-colour and pigments with microbes

Pili are developing a cell factory that uses an enzyme based process to convert sugars into colour, using a technique similar to fermenting beer. The genes for each enzyme are integrated into bacteria or other microorganism. These bacteria are grown in water-based bioreactors, using sugar as their main food source. This process requires no fossil fuels and no toxic inputs, and produces no harmful byproducts, making the bacterial biofactories both highly efficient and non-polluting. At the end of the process the pigment is separated by filtration. Image Pili.

Spotlight

Brewed Protein faux fur from Spiber

Faux fur made using Spiber‘s Brewed Protein bioplastic. This material is produced by genetically engineered microbes in a fermentation process exactly like brewing beer. It has already been used in textiles for fashion and automotive interiors, and has huge potential as a bio-based alternative to fibres derived from animals, petrochemicals and plants. Image Spiber.

Spotlight

Treekind plant-based leather by Biophilica

Biophilica Treekind is a flexible, leather-like material, made from urban plant waste, agricultural waste and forestry waste. It is made up of lignocellulosic feedstock (leaves, agricultural waste and forestry waste) with a natural binder. It is coated with a bio-based material to make it waterproof. Available in a range of natural colours, it may also be modified with plant pigments as well as non-toxic natural pigments. It is home compostable, recyclable and estimated to have a very low resource footprint. Image Biophilica.

Spotlight

Galy lab-grown cotton

Even though still in the lab, Galy promise their lab-grown Literally Cotton will be less susceptible to weather and environmental influences, in stable quantities and at stable prices. Instead of harvesting plants, the cells are grown in bioreactor in a process similar to beer brewing. Galy claim their cotton grows ten times faster than conventional cotton, in a process that uses 77% less water, 80% less land and emits 84% less CO2 than traditional cotton manufacturing. Image Galy.

Spotlight

BioPuff plant-based textile fill

BioPuff by Ponda (formerly Saltyco) is a plant-based material that uses bulrush (also known as reed mace). It has a similar structure to feathers and down, providing warm, lightweight and water-resistant natural insulation. It is derived from marshes using paludiculture, an ancient practice of farming on wetlands, such as rewetted peatlands, bogs and fens. About 20 bulrush heads are needed to make enough material for one jacket, and the first rushes are expected to be harvested from the UK site in 2026.

Spotlight

Natural Dye Collection by Ficus Innovations using Agraloop Biofibre

Ficus Innovations partnered with Circular Systems to produce a coloured natural textile fibre with the lowest environmental impact possible. Using only plant waste and extracts from pomegranate peel, olive leaf, lavender, and walnut shell, among others, and bio-resins, plant-based oils, and clay to achieve high colour fastness. No metal mordants, aluminium salts, formaldehyde, and azo dyes are used. Image Circular Systems.

Spotlight

Hemptex India hemp fibre and fabric

Hemptex India is a collaboration between CanvaLoop and Boheco (Bombay Hemp Company Private Limited). Their objective is to utilise agro-waste and make affordable & functional materials for sustainable fashion industry, while supporting local communities. The hemp fibre can be used for textiles for upholstery, apparel, accessories, shoes, furniture, performance wear and more. Image Definitely Curry.

Spotlight

Roica V550 degradable elastane yarn by Asahi Kasei

Asahi Kasei Roica V550 is an thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) elastane yarn that has been engineered to degrade. While the process is slow – around 35% of the yarn breaks down within 270 days – it offers an alternative to conventional synthetic elastane. Although elastane is typically only used in small quantities in garments, around 1-5% in a cotton t-shirt for example, it makes them impractical to recycle and means they can often end up in landfill. Image Asahi Kasei.

Spotlight

Organic Cotton Colours

Organic Cotton Colours produce organic cotton textile and garments without dye – the colour comes from cotton varieties that naturally grow in cream, green, and brown shades. Using regenerative farming practices, the company controls the supply chain from the field to the finished textile and garment. This ensures the absence of chemicals and guarantees a biodegradable product that is good for people and the planet. Image Organic Cotton Colours.

Spotlight

Colorifix bio-based textile dye

Colorifix dyeing technology uses a bio-based process to grow, deposit and fix colour onto textile. A colour target provides the reference for online DNA sequencing, which is inserted into a non-pathogenic microbe. Using renewable feedstocks such as sugars, yeasts, and plant by-products, they grow these genetically modified microorganisms to produce the desired colour. It is transferred onto textiles and fibres using conventional dyeing equipment, but with zero harmful substances and a fraction of the water and energy necessary in conventional dyeing. Since its founding in 2016, they have bought many colours to market including indigos, mauves, pastels and beiges. Image Colorifix.

Spotlight

Pangaia Frutfiber

Pangaia Frutfiber is a blend of bamboo lyocell regenerated cellulose combined with pineapple leaf and banana leaf fibres – two natural materials that are usually considered agricultural waste as byproducts of the food industry. After the fruits are harvested, these fibrous leaves are typically thrown in landfill or burned. Developed in collaboration between RDD Textiles and Pangaia. Image Pangaia.

Spotlight

Upparel UPtex compressed recycled textile

Upparel UPtex is a nonwoven recycled textile, compressed into lightweight panels with heat. It is 100% recycled and fully recyclable end of life. It can be produced at an array of densities and thicknesses from 3-100 mm depending on the required application. This ranges from soft cushioning to rigid panels, such as for packaging, signage, homewares and acoustic insulation. Image Upparel.

Spotlight

Tussah wild silk

Tussah wild silk, also tussore silk, is produced by several species of silkworm that are living wild in the forests. The moths have hatched and so only staple fibre is possible. Examples include eri silk (Samia ricini) and muga silk (Antheraea assamensis). Whereas eri silk is off-white and looks more like cotton once converted into fabric, muga is natural bright golden coloured. Image Sartor Bohemia.

Spotlight

Terraprene Neoprene

Terraprene neoprene is a type of polychloroprene rubber (CR) synthetic rubber made from limestone. Limestone is mined, crushed and melted at around 2,000 degC. It has a similar carbon footprint to petroleum-derived neoprene, such as used in wetsuits, but avoids the use of oil and associated negative impacts. Image NRS.

Spotlight

Tencel Refibra

Tencel Refibra regenerated cellulose textile combines recycled cotton waste from garment production (up to one third) and wood pulp sourced from sustainably managed forests to make virgin Tencel Lyocell. The result is a super soft fabric that reduces waste – it is manufactured in a virtually closed-loop process and the fabric is certified compostable end of life. Image Toms.

Spotlight

Tencel Lyocell regenerated cellulose fibre

Tencel Lyocell by Lenzing is a type of regenerated cellulose fibre, derived from wood pulp. The conventional way of making this type of fibre consumes a lot of nasty chemicals. Lyocell takes a novel approach, using a different chemical system – N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (a form of amine oxide known as NMMO) and water – which allows a virtually closed-loop production system. Lyocell is soft, absorbent and comfortable. It is often combined with a wide other textile fibres such as cotton, polyester, acrylic, wool, and silk to enhance the aesthetics and functionality of fabrics. Lyocell is certified biodegradable and compostable under industrial, home, soil and marine conditions. Image Tencel.

Spotlight

Spinnova fibre

Spinnova is a textile fibre produced from micro fibrillated cellulose (MFC). It is white, fluffy and firm, with a warmth comparable to lambswool. Its stretch and strength are similar to cotton. Depending on the application, it is possible to make the fibre water repellent, or moisture absorbing. It is spun into yarn and suitable for knitted, woven and nonwoven fabrics. Image Spinnova.

Spotlight

Reishi fine mycelium fabric

Reishi fine mycelium fabric by MycoWorks provides an alternative to animal leather and plastic-based textiles made using polyurethane (PU) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC). This luxury mycelium leather that looks and feels like fine animal leather but with much lower environmental impact. Image MycoWorks.

Spotlight

Piñayarn by Ananas Anam

Piñayarn by Ananas Anam is a textile fibre made from waste pineapple leaves. Production is closed-loop and the dry spinning process used requires no water or harmful chemicals. The fibre is blended with other natural fibres to create breathable and biodegradable textiles for fashion, interiors and packaging. Image Ananas Anam.

Spotlight

Nativa wool

Nativa was launched by Chargeurs Luxury Materials, a leader in luxury combed wool. It is sourced from certified farms in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, North America, Uruguay and Argentina. They comply with strict levels of animal welfare, land management and ethical work policies. Fabrics made with Nativa are 100% traceable from farm to consumer. Image Nativa.

Spotlight

Malai coconut leather

Malai coconut leather is produced through bacterial fermentation of waste coconut water, a byproduct of coconut production. The bacterial cellulose that develops is enriched with natural fibres (banana, sisal, hemp), gums and resins to create a durable and flexible material which is converted into flat sheet or 3D parts. It is coloured with plant-based mordant-free dyes. Plant extracts like indigo, madder, cutch or marigold petals are used in order to achieve the colour. It is plastic-free, vegan and home compostable. Image Malai.

Spotlight

GrapeSkin synthetic leather by Vegea

GrapeSkin synthetic leather by Vegea is made using by-products from wine making in Italy. The solid remains of grapes after pressing (known as pomace this include the skins, pulp, seeds and stems) are combined with vegetable oil and water-based polyurethane resin (PUR). It is coated onto cotton fabric or recycled polyester (rPET). The finished material comprises around 55% grape waste. Image MoEa.

Spotlight

Fruitleather

Fruitleather is produced from mango waste mixed with additives and finished with a waterproof coating. It is backed with organic cotton to provide strength. This vegan leather is suitable as an alternative to animal leather in many situations, including fashion, footwear and furniture applications. Image Fruitleather.

Spotlight

EcoFlexy by Cellugy

EcoFlexy by Cellugy is a cellulose product made through bacterial fermentation of sugar from vegetable waste from agriculture. It has potential as a coating on paper and textiles to enhance properties for packaging applications, for example, such as providing a fossil-free, compostable and recyclable waterproof barrier. Image Cellugy.

Spotlight

CRAiLAR hemp and flax fibre

CRAiLAR is an enzymatic process that softens bast fibers of hemp and flax in order to offer fibres similar to cotton. The Crailar process creates a softness to flax and hemp that could never be achieved before, creating products that are similar and even superior to cotton without the negative environmental effects that cotton farming can have. Image CRAiLAR.

Spotlight

Circulose regenerated cellulose fibre by Renewcell

Circulose by Renewcell is a regenerated cellulose textile produced from old cotton garments. The waste material is shredded, de-buttoned, de-zipped, de-coloured and turned into a slurry. Contaminants and other non-cellulosic content are separated and removed. The slurry is dried to produce Circulose dissolving pulp, which is used to make new cellulose fibres, such as viscose, lyocell, modal and acetate. The company launched their first factory in 2023 and was declared bankrupt in February 2024. Image Renewcell.

Spotlight

Biopure bio-recycled polyester by Protein Evolution

Biopure bio-recycled polyester by Protein Evolution is made from rigid packaging waste and industrial textile strappings. Protein Evolution uses AI-designed enzymes to break down polyester (PET) waste into the raw materials of new polyester that are indistinguishable to the petroleum-derived raw materials used in polyester manufacturing. The process is capable of handling a variety of waste streams, from plastic bottles and clam-shells, to industrial textiles and garments. Image Stella McCartney.

Spotlight

AppleSkin by Vegatex

AppleSkin by Vegatex is a synthetic leather produced with a mix of plant-based materials (by-product of apple processing for the beverage industry) mixed with water-based polyurethane resin (PUR) on a Tencel Lyocell, or recycled polyester (rPET), textile backing. Similar materials from Vegatex include LemonSkin made with by-products of apples and lemons from the beverage industry, and BarleySkin made from brewer’s spent grains. Image Vegatex.