@spot_material
hello@spotmaterial.com
Cotton
1.2-4 usd/kg
Cotton is a very important fibre that makes up 80% of all natural fibre sales and accounts for around 25% of total fibre consumption, second only to polyester.
It is a soft and breathable cellulose fibre obtained from the boll (seedpod) of the cotton plant (Gossypium genus). The fibre is hollow and highly absorbent. It can swell to take on water, many times its own weight. In use since prehistoric times, it continues to be popular even though many synthetic alternatives have emerged in recent years.
It is supple with very good drape – qualities that are the result of its role on the plant. Unlike leaf fibres and those from the stems of plants (bast fibre), cotton does not play any structural role. It is light and airy, and almost pure cellulose. This means it takes dye very well, and so is available in a range of high quality and consistent colours.
Cotton is naturally off-white, or a muted shade of red, green or brown. These naturally coloured varieties are hard to come by (check out Foxfibre by Sally Fox in US). Most cotton is off-white and bleached to a bright white before dyeing with colour. Unfortunately, this is part of the problem with cotton. While it is renewable, and potentially a positive circular ingredient in textiles, the techniques used to mass produce it are harmful and use significant quantities of chemicals. Globally, cotton accounts for around 5% of all pesticide sales and 10% of insecticide sales. While not all toxic, many of these chemicals are known to be harmful people and the planet. Once harvested, the cotton fibre is bleached, scoured, mercerised and dyed. Altogether, it results in one of the least sustainable natural fibres.
Cotton is the most commonly used natural fibre in textiles. It is possible to recycle the fibre, but the process is not straightforward. Most recycled cotton comes from pre-consumer scrap, from the production line. Offcuts and other waste are collected, sorted by colour, shredded and converted back into a usable fibre that is spun into yarn. Even though its softness is maintained, the fibres are damaged during the recycling process, which reduces mechanical properties.
Recycled cotton is typically used for secondary applications, and lower cost products, even though the raw material price tends to be higher. Its absorbent properties are utilised in clothes and wipes, for example. And its softness in fabrics for packaging and protection.
An alternative method of recycling takes cellulose rich fibres, like cotton and viscose, and converts them into new cellulose fibre. The waste material is shredded, de-buttoned, de-zipped, de-coloured and turned into a slurry. Contaminants and other non-cellulosic content are separated from the slurry. The slurry is dried to produce dissolving pulp, which is used to make new cellulose fibres, such as viscose, lyocell, modal and acetate. Another example is Infinna, who take mixed textile waste with high cotton (or cellulose) content and chemically recycle it with urea to produce new regenerated cellulose carbamate fibre.
