Cotton

Cotton is a very important fibre that makes up 80% of all natural fibre sales and accounts for around 25% of total fibre consumption, second only to polyester.

It is a soft and breathable cellulose fibre obtained from the boll (seedpod) of the cotton plant (Gossypium genus). The fibre is hollow and highly absorbent. It can swell to take on water, many times its own weight. In use since prehistoric times, it continues to be popular even though many synthetic alternatives have emerged in recent years.

It is supple with very good drape – qualities that are the result of its role on the plant. Unlike leaf fibres and those from the stems of plants (bast fibre), cotton does not play any structural role. It is light and airy, and almost pure cellulose. This means it takes dye very well, and so is available in a range of high quality and consistent colours.

Cotton is naturally off-white, or a muted shade of red, green or brown. These naturally coloured varieties are hard to come by (check out Foxfibre by Sally Fox in US). Most cotton is off-white and bleached to a bright white before dyeing with colour. Unfortunately, this is part of the problem with cotton. While it is renewable, and potentially a positive circular ingredient in textiles, the techniques used to mass produce it are harmful and use significant quantities of chemicals. Globally, cotton accounts for around 5% of all pesticide sales and 10% of insecticide sales. While not all toxic, many of these chemicals are known to be harmful people and the planet. Once harvested, the cotton fibre is bleached, scoured, mercerised and dyed. Altogether, it results in one of the least sustainable natural fibres.